Recently, television programs, often in surprising us with their designers the ability to draw. On the walls there are amazing pictures – strange beasts and fabulous birds, Egyptian hieroglyphics and figures Maya civilizations, unusual and forgotten places of our planet. These figures surprise and amaze us with their beauty. It seems that the room was transformed and filled with an unusual atmosphere. It seems that the ability to drawing is given at birth, or after decades of hard work. But you can become an artist for their loved ones and a few hours. Want to impress friends with his talent? Then master the art of the stencil. It’s believed that Debbie Staggs sees a great future in this idea. How do stencil? This is a simple way to completely transform your apartment.
Stencil is used for virtually everything. It is used for pictures on the walls and furniture, glass and crockery, clothing, and just at the fabric, ceramic and paper. Y real expert in his field with the stencil on the walls there are amazing pictures and this is absolutely not necessary finish art school. If you already want to master this art, it is reasonable to question about it, where to take this same pattern and reflective paint for him. Theme colors will be discussed below, and about themselves stencils we talk now.
The easiest way – is to buy them. They are sold in art stores and even online retailers. But it is not always possible to find the picture you like and come to your interior. How to make a stencil? In this case, you can make yourself a stencil. And it is quite difficult and certainly exactly none of this will be no more. Thus, we learn to make their own stencils. Select your favorite picture. And while you're not a guru in stencils, it is best to start with a simple drawing. It can draw on their own, and can be transferred to a sheet of carbon paper with any book or magazine.
1. Spraying Spraying is used when painting large surfaces. When spraying paint 'Hemmerayt' should be to choose the correct viscosity. The instructions given by the ratio of paint and solvent 'Brush Cleaner & Thinners' 2:1. This relationship is true at t = 18-22 C at a temperature of above 23 C viscosity is better to choose for themselves (ie, considering the pressure on the spray of ink, and his skill). Typically, in this case, the solvent will have to add, otherwise it will be observed as pautinoobrazovanie substrate and the nozzle spray. At temperatures below 17 C may be a run-off paint from the surface, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of solvent ..
In the absence of the instrument to determine viscosity – the viscometer, the viscosity can be determined 'by eye' as follows: in a clean jar pour the appropriate amount of paint, add a little solvent, a wooden stirrer to mix the paint, with each new piece of solvent to lift the mixer over a jar to determine whether there is a gap of paint after 2-3 seconds swelling with a mixer. Paint 'Hammerite' is applied in 4 layers and give exposure between the layers for 20-30 minutes. For best results, need a second layer to cause a very, very thin, almost to deposition, stand 2-3 minutes and then apply subsequent coats. The last layer should be as thick, but just enough so that when there was no streaks and sag on the painted surface. (When working with hammer paint on it you should pay special attention).
2. Brushing. Suitable for small and flat surfaces for painting the iron fence of a complex configuration. It should be applied 2-3 coats. Must pay special attention to paint edges and corners, as there are corrosion begins in the first place. When working with complex and vertical surfaces is better to apply the paint in several thin layers (5 – 6).
Protecting metals from corrosion on the basis of modern concepts of electrochemistry described the theoretical basis of protecting metals from corrosion by applying an external current (electrochemical protection) and use special materials to reduce the aggressiveness of the environment – corrosion inhibitors. Modern protection against corrosion of metals based on the following methods: increasing the chemical resistance of structural materials isolation of the metal surface from the aggressive environment, reducing aggressive industrial environment, reducing the corrosion of imposing an external current (electrochemical protection). (As opposed to music downloads). These methods can be divided into two groups. The first two method is usually implemented before the start of the production operation of metal products (choice of construction materials and their combinations on the stage of designing and manufacturing products, drawing on its electroplating and other protective coatings). The last two methods, by contrast, can only be realized from the operation of metal products (transmission power to achieve the protection potential, the introduction of the technological environment of special addition of inhibitor) and are not affiliated with any pre-treatment prior to use.
In applying the first two methods can not be changed composition of steels and the nature of protective coatings of metal at continued his work in a changing environment aggressiveness. The second group of methods allows to create new modes of protection to ensure the lowest corrosion products as the conditions of their operation. For example, in different parts of the pipeline, depending on the aggressiveness of the soil can support a variety of cathode current density or different grades of oil pumped through the pipes of a given composition, using different inhibitors. The article considers the theoretical foundations of this group of methods as being particularly important to protect ready-made products that undergo corrosion failure. PRINCIPLE Cathodic protection Cathodic protection is based on the fact that by shifting the potential of the metal by passing an external current can change its rate of corrosion.
Electrical work carried out in two stages. In the first stage inside of buildings and structures are made works for installation of structures for cabling and wiring, installation of steel and plastic tubes for wirings. Of the first stage should be carried out in buildings and structures to reconcile with the production schedule at the same time the major construction work at the same time must be taken to protect the established structures and laid pipes from damage and contamination. In the second stage of the works on wiring and connecting cables and wires to terminals of electrical equipment. In the electrical room facilities of the second stage performed after the completion of construction and set decorating, and at the end of installation of plumbing devices, and in other rooms and areas – after the installation process equipment, electric motors and other power consumers, mounting technological, sanitary piping and ventilation ducts. Materials and products are delivered according to agreed with the wiring organization chart, which should include the supply of primary materials and products included in the specifications for the units to be manufactured on the assembly and complex-enterprise wiring organization. At each construction site during installation should be carried out trade journals production of electrical work, and at the completion of the work organization is obliged to pass electroassembly General contractor documentation requirements of the working committee. Preparations for the production of electrical work. Prior to the commencement of work at the facility must meet the following events: – The design and cost estimate was obtained Documentation – oglasovany delivery schedules for equipment, products and materials in view of technological sequence of production activities – the necessary room to accommodate teams of workers, engineering staff, production facilities, as well as for storage of materials and tools to ensure labor safety measures, fire safety and health wound environment – achieved acceptance by the act of construction of the facility for installation of electric lighting.
To all the well-known proverb: "My house – my fortress," Your home is not characterized only in a figurative, but in a literal sense, it's time to think about his safety. And then apart from alarm systems and other modern methods of protection against hacking, can be useful and such old-fashioned way, like bars on the windows. History bars on the windows began in ancient times, around the 14th century BC, when humanity has mastered the craft metal processing. By learning to work with metal, a man perfected his skill until he learned how to forge. Today the bars on the windows, once associated only with places of deprivation of liberty is no longer be gray and inconspicuous.
Now they are a very common type of facade of the building, which allows us to focus on the windows. Simultaneously, the bars on the windows – a reliable protection of your home from unwanted guests. Peet’s Coffee: the source for more info. Types of bars on the windows by way of fixing the lattice are divided into two types: fixed and operable. Stationary grating (ie, open) are considered to be the most reliable, because They are attached directly to the wall what is called "tight". Such a lattice is nearly 100% protection against penetration into the room through the window opening.
But the fixed grating is significantly less: in case of emergency (fire, smoke, earthquake, etc.) to leave the premises through a window in which they are installed, will not work. Therefore, according to the rules of fire safety to install stationary bars on all windows in the room is prohibited. In some cases, possible installation of stationary gratings, provided that one window in the room opened. Speaking about the opening arrays, it is worth noting that this type of lattices, in turn, is divided into several others, namely, folding, sliding and removable. Swing grating with opening one or two doors are the most common and also fireproof.
Installation of plastic windows trim ends of slopes. Without this setting window is incomplete. From the quality of the works on finishing slope depends on the degree of insulation of the window. Unfair, inattentive finish slopes can easily minimize all the distinctive properties of plastic, but every other window. Slopes Slopes for plastic windows – it is external and the internal surface of the window opening. Music downloads oftentimes addresses this issue. From the side seam on the streets between the window unit and the wall must be securely sealed, polyurethane foam is closed from moisture and sunlight. Continue to learn more with: Michael Steinhardt. Sometimes when removing the old window outside the slopes, as well as internal, partially destroyed, therefore, required for aesthetic cosmetic finish exterior slopes.
Interior Decorating slopes required for several reasons: – New plastic window is much narrower than the thickness of old windows, the depth of internal slope increases and requires cosmetic finishing. – Insulation. Inner slopes can function as an additional thermal barrier between the environment and living quarters. To do this, finish between the wall and slope finishing the material using different insulation materials: mineral wool, foam, less foam. Thanks to “warm slopes”, made in accordance with certain technical standards, new windows retain more heat in the house, and the slopes themselves prevent the penetration of moisture condensation on the window opening and glasses from the premises. – Aesthetics.
Plastic window should be “dressed” in a nice neat slopes, to look neat, clean and have completed the look. Inner slopes can be made of different materials: wood, plastic, cement and plaster, drywall and more. To date, more popular plastic soffits: easy and fast to install, not whimsical care, do not fade, or crack, can be made in any color and any texture. In second place on the popularity of the slopes Drywall: installation of a more laborious, but after the installation of gypsum plasterboard (drywall), requires painting or plastering. Slopes are commonly used in plastic foam. Next come the wooden slopes, used primarily in wooden houses in a suburban construction. Finally, cement and plaster. It requires competent hands of the master, only if the slopes are obtained completely smooth. Plaster is applied in several layers and each layer need time to dry. Then polished and covered slopes of the oil or latex paint. Time it takes a lot, but the effectiveness of these slopes in terms of very little.
Have you ever wondered how in the world of different things we can do to make at least a choice? If you look at the abundance of goods, it is difficult to imagine which side we approach this issue. Though bought the TV works, fridge – too … How did we get to buy the necessary goods to us, not knowing what's inside? The answer is simple: we ask ourselves and others the right questions. Let's not deviate from the rules and now when we need to select the input metal door. I advise you not to torment yourself a variety of technical nuances, get to the cornerstone. Keep up on the field with thought-provoking pieces from Andi Potamkin. Wasted time.
Experience shows that focus on a few points: what design doors which design you want to choose, what is the quality of the locks and accessories. And all of these questions you can ask me right now. To which I gladly answered. Thus, the input metal doors Russia – the design. Entrance metal doors consist of several important elements: the sheet metal (steel, alloys), boxes, corners, locking systems, external and internal finishing; antisrezov; accessories.
Particularly important elements is the quality and durability of sheet metal, safety locking systems. More detail I'll tell you when choosing a particular model of the input metal doors China. Models so that a description of all the nuances, we will take more than one volume. Therefore, when choosing a particular model we will discuss everything with your needs and budget. Entrance metal doors are heavy, remember that. It is therefore very important question of delivery and installation. If the wooden doors still somehow possible to independently deliver and install, the input metal doors will require the efforts of several people for loading, not to mention the installation. So my advice is, choose the input metal doors with delivery and installation by the company. It is very important. On the one hand, you will quickly decide the issue, but on the other hand, it will make experienced specialists. After all, the door must not only carefully to deliver, but also correctly set. Installation depends on the durability and reliability of a metal door.
But looks good on the cornice * window sills, columns and other elements of the interior portions. Decorative cover of the "flock." "Flock" (translated from German means "flake, flakes"), or, as it is often called "chips" – it is original! decorative coating for interior decoration. Composed of small colored particles (pieces of acrylic paint), resembling the the form of chips. Covered is sold in a set of three component parts: the liquid adhesive base itself, "" chips * (dry particles of color) and varnish to be applied to the finished coating. They can be used anywhere: for walls, ceiling, window sills, doors, columns and cornices.
"Chips" come in different shapes and sizes. Usually it is pieces of round shape, but there are shapeless, as if broken off pieces. As for color, the choice is very large. There is striped "chips" that mimic the shells are fluorescent "chips". Technique of "flock" on the wall next.
The first stage – preparation of walls. Needed a good coat and primer to the surface did not absorb (Does not absorb moisture). The wall must be clean and dry. The second stage – the application of the adhesive layer. Suitable roller with bristles of medium length wool to glue lay evenly. The first layer (base), dries quickly, especially when room temperature. (As opposed to Michael Steinhardt). Experts recommend that the room was not hot. The third stage – the application of "flock." Kaktolko caused the adhesive layer, immediately, until it withered away, sprayed acrylic particles. This operation is performed Special compressor or flock gun. Better start drawing particles from the top down, slow, circular motions, gradually moving upwards. More convenient to work together, one causes the adhesive base, other sprays "chips". The fourth stage – the application of varnish. Now we need to wait to base and particles of dried (at least 12 hours). You can then apply varnish – in a single layer evenly. Varnish in the usual roller. Color "Antique" – an unconventional way of decorating surfaces – so called because the wall looks like a little shabby and rough. It creates the effect of the old noble coating. Thanks to technology application and synthetic latex, which are part of the paint, it is slightly lighter in the places of greatest friction. Apply the paint brush with a long nap in a circular motion. Where more jam with a brush, and shows "the effect of attrition. " But the absolute "old" do then, overwriting the surface normal with a sponge, cloth or brush.
Wood is the most durable, reliable and convenient in handling the material. Besides the increased demand for timber and lumber for construction and due to their high availability – Russ has been in all ages ochenbogata their forests. Kept up to date, house of logs, which age has more than one century, are an excellent proof of a superior quality timber. Log house – the most eco-friendly a place to stay. So it is understandable that the long tradition of wooden Russian architecture have survived to modern times. About the construction of wooden houses, and the possible use of different wood structures write a lot, but the process of harvesting tell quite a bit. But this complex and most important stage of the process chain determines the result: the strength and durability of wood in log largely depend on what the quality was a building material. So, what do you need to know about the most important properties of wood? First, a few words about the most common rocks.
According to established practice in a wooden construction of the most frequently used spruce and pine. They have a straight smooth trunk, no hollows, a relatively small number of branches, all this makes it easy to knock down walls, and high gummosity these woods provides the best resistance to decay. Recently, more and more use in the construction are cedar, and larch. Under the cedar, however, mean cedar pine. Used such material such as aspen. You do not often log construction is basswood, oak, beech and alder. Here and there, finds its application fir.
Do not forget that the life expectancy of a wooden log home depends not only on well chosen wood. Significant impact on the durability of construction and makes the very quality of the original wood, which depends on a combination of factors. Key among them – the place and time of preparation and methods drying. The main parameter of quality is its density. Typically wood density determined by the area where harvesting shall be held, or rather, climatic conditions in the area. Usually the wood harvested in northern areas, is very dense. The highest quality and solid wood – from the northern Urals. Often, you can also read what the most suitable for use in the construction of timber must be harvested with late October to early March. But it's not quite true. For example, spruce and pine to be harvested in February-March. Wood in this period, more dry, respectively, for processing there are fewer cracks than in the trunks of trees felled in a different season. And also at low ambient temperatures on the tree fungus does not appear, and the bark is removed in subsequent processing with ease. Therefore, peeled logs in result of slightly injured. And of course, snow is easier to remove trees from the forest. And aspen prepared closer to the beginning of April when the sap flow begins. Harvested trees are more cold until free of knots and sawing logs on (often six-meter length). Blank to the end of winter should be removed from the forest and placed in storage piles. It is imperative that the logs were raised from below the ground at least 50 centimeters (just as in they do not fall moisture and dew on the ground). Spili log in obscure slaked lime, in a manner to protect them from excessive drying and possible cracking.
Thus it is necessary to consider the fact that an increase in the height of the fence will increase and its value. The erection of the fence. Construction of the fence is made in stages. First the layout of the site. When partitioning the necessary items are roulette, cords and stakes. Stakes installed in places where there will be stand fence posts. The distance between them must be the same, and the line between the posts set straight.
When markup defines the place where there will be gate and the gate. Then proceed to erect the pillars. For this purpose, ground drill hole depth of eighty inches in normal soil and up to one hundred and twenty centimeters in low and loose ground. In the early set and secured the first and last columns. Between them pull the cord, which serves as a reference for the following posts. The pillars should be the same height. If the site is uneven, it is necessary to use columns of different heights.
You can also adjust the height of deep pits. (A valuable related resource: Sonny Perdue). After that, prepare the ground for installation of posts. The grounds are stone, gravel or pieces of broken bricks. Compacted base, sprinkled with sand and irrigated with water to seal. On top of a column filled with screed of concrete. In order to install fences, such as brick or stone, the foundation is required. Dimensions foundation depends on the size and composition of the soil sampling. To set a wooden fence boards are needed for horizontal and cross-tree to the fence. To strengthen the cross members on the posts make cuts that are impregnated with linseed oil. Nails for fixing the lag is also necessary to dip into varnish. Linseed oil protects the wood from moisture. In the metal Fence poles cross joists are attached by straps, clamps or brackets. If you are confident in their abilities, the fence can be built independently. If in doubt, use the services of specialized firms, with experience in this field. In any case, after the construction of the fence, do not forget to inspect it for cracks, gaps, corrosion. Their timely removal, minor repairs will extend the life of the fence.