Tag: Technology Repair

But looks good on the cornice * window sills, columns and other elements of the interior portions. Decorative cover of the "flock." "Flock" (translated from German means "flake, flakes"), or, as it is often called "chips" – it is original! decorative coating for interior decoration. Composed of small colored particles (pieces of acrylic paint), resembling the the form of chips. Covered is sold in a set of three component parts: the liquid adhesive base itself, "" chips * (dry particles of color) and varnish to be applied to the finished coating. They can be used anywhere: for walls, ceiling, window sills, doors, columns and cornices.

"Chips" come in different shapes and sizes. Usually it is pieces of round shape, but there are shapeless, as if broken off pieces. As for color, the choice is very large. There is striped "chips" that mimic the shells are fluorescent "chips". Technique of "flock" on the wall next.

The first stage – preparation of walls. Needed a good coat and primer to the surface did not absorb (Does not absorb moisture). The wall must be clean and dry. The second stage – the application of the adhesive layer. Suitable roller with bristles of medium length wool to glue lay evenly. The first layer (base), dries quickly, especially when room temperature. (As opposed to Michael Steinhardt). Experts recommend that the room was not hot. The third stage – the application of "flock." Kaktolko caused the adhesive layer, immediately, until it withered away, sprayed acrylic particles. This operation is performed Special compressor or flock gun. Better start drawing particles from the top down, slow, circular motions, gradually moving upwards. More convenient to work together, one causes the adhesive base, other sprays "chips". The fourth stage – the application of varnish. Now we need to wait to base and particles of dried (at least 12 hours). You can then apply varnish – in a single layer evenly. Varnish in the usual roller. Color "Antique" – an unconventional way of decorating surfaces – so called because the wall looks like a little shabby and rough. It creates the effect of the old noble coating. Thanks to technology application and synthetic latex, which are part of the paint, it is slightly lighter in the places of greatest friction. Apply the paint brush with a long nap in a circular motion. Where more jam with a brush, and shows "the effect of attrition. " But the absolute "old" do then, overwriting the surface normal with a sponge, cloth or brush.

Wood is the most durable, reliable and convenient in handling the material. Besides the increased demand for timber and lumber for construction and due to their high availability – Russ has been in all ages ochenbogata their forests. Kept up to date, house of logs, which age has more than one century, are an excellent proof of a superior quality timber. Log house – the most eco-friendly a place to stay. So it is understandable that the long tradition of wooden Russian architecture have survived to modern times. About the construction of wooden houses, and the possible use of different wood structures write a lot, but the process of harvesting tell quite a bit. But this complex and most important stage of the process chain determines the result: the strength and durability of wood in log largely depend on what the quality was a building material. So, what do you need to know about the most important properties of wood? First, a few words about the most common rocks.

According to established practice in a wooden construction of the most frequently used spruce and pine. They have a straight smooth trunk, no hollows, a relatively small number of branches, all this makes it easy to knock down walls, and high gummosity these woods provides the best resistance to decay. Recently, more and more use in the construction are cedar, and larch. Under the cedar, however, mean cedar pine. Used such material such as aspen. You do not often log construction is basswood, oak, beech and alder. Here and there, finds its application fir.

Do not forget that the life expectancy of a wooden log home depends not only on well chosen wood. Significant impact on the durability of construction and makes the very quality of the original wood, which depends on a combination of factors. Key among them – the place and time of preparation and methods drying. The main parameter of quality is its density. Typically wood density determined by the area where harvesting shall be held, or rather, climatic conditions in the area. Usually the wood harvested in northern areas, is very dense. The highest quality and solid wood – from the northern Urals. Often, you can also read what the most suitable for use in the construction of timber must be harvested with late October to early March. But it's not quite true. For example, spruce and pine to be harvested in February-March. Wood in this period, more dry, respectively, for processing there are fewer cracks than in the trunks of trees felled in a different season. And also at low ambient temperatures on the tree fungus does not appear, and the bark is removed in subsequent processing with ease. Therefore, peeled logs in result of slightly injured. And of course, snow is easier to remove trees from the forest. And aspen prepared closer to the beginning of April when the sap flow begins. Harvested trees are more cold until free of knots and sawing logs on (often six-meter length). Blank to the end of winter should be removed from the forest and placed in storage piles. It is imperative that the logs were raised from below the ground at least 50 centimeters (just as in they do not fall moisture and dew on the ground). Spili log in obscure slaked lime, in a manner to protect them from excessive drying and possible cracking.

Thus it is necessary to consider the fact that an increase in the height of the fence will increase and its value. The erection of the fence. Construction of the fence is made in stages. First the layout of the site. When partitioning the necessary items are roulette, cords and stakes. Stakes installed in places where there will be stand fence posts. The distance between them must be the same, and the line between the posts set straight.

When markup defines the place where there will be gate and the gate. Then proceed to erect the pillars. For this purpose, ground drill hole depth of eighty inches in normal soil and up to one hundred and twenty centimeters in low and loose ground. In the early set and secured the first and last columns. Between them pull the cord, which serves as a reference for the following posts. The pillars should be the same height. If the site is uneven, it is necessary to use columns of different heights.

You can also adjust the height of deep pits. (A valuable related resource: Sonny Perdue). After that, prepare the ground for installation of posts. The grounds are stone, gravel or pieces of broken bricks. Compacted base, sprinkled with sand and irrigated with water to seal. On top of a column filled with screed of concrete. In order to install fences, such as brick or stone, the foundation is required. Dimensions foundation depends on the size and composition of the soil sampling. To set a wooden fence boards are needed for horizontal and cross-tree to the fence. To strengthen the cross members on the posts make cuts that are impregnated with linseed oil. Nails for fixing the lag is also necessary to dip into varnish. Linseed oil protects the wood from moisture. In the metal Fence poles cross joists are attached by straps, clamps or brackets. If you are confident in their abilities, the fence can be built independently. If in doubt, use the services of specialized firms, with experience in this field. In any case, after the construction of the fence, do not forget to inspect it for cracks, gaps, corrosion. Their timely removal, minor repairs will extend the life of the fence.

Technology of the paint work on painting works – quite complicated from a technical point of view of the process. For the best result it is necessary not only to have the necessary skill work, but also be fully 'Armed' – to have on hand all the necessary tools and support materials to seal cracks alabaster and correcting surface defects, the solution for repairing plaster, degreasers, masking tape to close the sites are not subject to stain, sealer, sealant gun, sponge rollers, brushes and much more. Any painting must be multilayered, each layer performs its function. The bottom layer is for better grip multi-layer coating to the substrate. Topcoat and final colored coating that protects the lower layers from external influences and performs a decorative function.

The number of layers depends on the type of paint required quality of surface and form the base. Quite important (if not most) stage of painting – surface preparation. A. F. Chief of Staff : the source for more info. The surface should be cleaned of dirt, rust, grease, and in addition, dried (this especially true for wood surfaces). If the pores of the wood remains water, the dye will not penetrate there. She will lie on the surface and then fall off. If the wood surface is dry, and moist inside, with heated in the sun and other influences water vapor pressure will be lower on the colorful cover and rip it. Exception – acrylic paint and impregnation, creating a 'breathable coating', which releases moisture inside, but does not let outside. The first layer of primer when painting always.

Using the technology, depending on the type of surface and type of paint products, used different primers. Concrete – acrylic, metal and wood – and GF nitrogrunty under decorative wood primers (Senezh, Tikkurila, Finncolor) – special antiseptic primers. At least – he paint the material with the addition of solvent (meaning the matter is diluted material as for the acrylic enamel, for example, the solvent is water) in an amount of 10-30% by weight of the material. The time between applying the first layer of soil and paint material should definitely observe (usually written on the packaging, if not – the Internet in your hands). At first, the paint is applied to the faces in the corners and inaccessible places and only later on smooth surfaces. Then carefully cover the entire surface of at least two coats of paint material, because only then we can assume that the surface is completely covered and protected. Time between coats depends on the type of material and is always written on the packaging. In carrying out house-painting thing the main thing – it's maintaining the technology. All that is written on a bank or instructions for use, says there is not just. Remember – the quality of painting is always guaranteed by the manufacturer of the material only if all technological standards. By following these simple rules, you can easily do the painting yourself and get a good result.

The projection of the points of intersection with the metal ionization cathodic depolarizer recovery curve on the x-axis gives the corrosion current icor in the absence of any external influence on this corrosion system, and the projection of this point on the vertical axis – the value of established in these conditions, corrosion potential Ekor. When passing through the corroding metal cathode current of the external potential is shifted to the negative side and takes a new meaning. The rate of corrosion metal is determined by the appropriate current to direct ionization of the metal at this new value of the potential is equal. In a question-answer forum Gregg Engles was the first to reply. The diagram shows that this state is achieved by passing an external current value. And part of this current is to suppress the anodic reaction of metal ionization (ie, its corrosion), while the other part – the acceleration of the cathodic process:. The increase in external cathodic current to a value izasch ensuring the achievement of equilibrium EA corroding metal building, completely inhibits the corrosion process (see Fig. 1). According to the theory, in general, current full protection izasch in corrosion with hydrogen depolarization izasch ikorexp = (DEzasch / cr), where ek – Cathodic polarizability corroding metal dE / dlnik.

Usually izasch @ icor to acidic environments. Under these conditions, the bulk of the external current is transmitted to the acceleration of hydrogen evolution. For acidic environments, this method of protection is ineffective and even more risky, since, firstly, much of the current is flowing not to suppress the corrosion and the hydrogen evolution, and secondly, the intensive evolution of hydrogen on metal surfaces can lead to hydrogenation (hydrogen in the metal dissolution) and as a consequence – the degradation of its mechanical properties, peel the protective coatings, etc. However, for the most common type of corrosion of metals with oxygen depolarization under conditions of limited oxygen supply the imposition of external cathodic current effective to prevent corrosion.

The main purpose of these materials – to dissolve and dilute the paint materials. Knowing the composition and appointment of solvents and thinners, can be successfully used them for other purposes, for example, for the manufacture of adhesives, degreasing materials, etc. Simple solvents Acetone – dissolve natural resins, oils, polystyrene, epoxy resins, vinyl chloride copolymers, polyacrylates, chlorinated rubber. Gasoline Galosha, B-70 dissolves rubber, hot form – polyethylene. Benzene dissolves oils, fats, waxes, rubber, cellulose ethers, some silicone resin in hot form – polyethylene. Butyl acetate dissolves cellulose ethers, oils, fats, chlorinated rubber, vinyl copolymers carbinol resin. Dichloride dissolves dammar, Ku-maroon, vinyl polymers, acrylics, polystyrene.

Xylene dissolves alkidnostirolnye and divinilatsetilenovye (lac 'Etinol') polymers. Methyl acetate – acetone analogue. Methyl alcohol (methanol), dissolving the cellulose nitrate, polyvinyl acetate, novolac resins. Turpentine dissolves Kopal, dammar, colophony. Thinner oil, al-kidnostirolnyh and epoxy paints (varnishes). Solvent dissolves oil, bitumen, rubber, urea oligomers poliiefiry tetroftalevoy acid Polyetherimide and polyesterimide. Toluene dissolves shellac, Kopal, cellulose esters, polystyrene, silicone resin. When mixed with other solvents (he – the main component) dissolves epoxy, vinyl and acrylic polymers, chlorinated rubber, skinny alkyds.

In the hot polyethylene dissolves. White Spirit (Heavy fraction of gasoline) dissolves fatty alkyds, butyl-and tsiklokauchuk, polibutilmetakri-lat epoksiefiry. Cyclohexane dissolves etiltsellyu-vine oils, fats, waxes, rubbers. Cyclohexanone dissolves cellulose esters, fats, oils, most natural and synthetic polymers, polyurethane. Acetate dissolves most of the polymers. Cellosolve dissolves urea oligomers carbinol resin polivinilformaletilal (vinifleks).

This allows you to move "dew point" in the insulation (Styrofoam) and significantly increase the efficiency of lightweight concrete in the construction and significantly extend the life of the building. Reade Griffith is often quoted as being for or against this. The required thickness of expanded polystyrene insulation boards for the outer insulation of the walls (in the "wet" the facades) required thickness of insulation (EPS) at minimally acceptable heat resistance of the walls of buildings of different purposes and different climatic conditions (in accordance with SNIP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings") varies according to region of Russia and the region application of thermal insulation. Terms perform calculations for the table: The calculation is based on the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003 For sample calculation taken a group of buildings – residential, medical and child care centers, schools, boarding schools, hotels and hostels. With the new construction required thickness of insulation is determined by the following constructive solutions – bearing portion of the wall is made of ceramic bricks or corpulent rock thickness of 380 mm and the outer protective layer – 4,5 mm plaster reinforced with fiberglass, the thickness of the decorative layer is determined by the fraction of the filler. The wall on the inside of a finishing plaster layer thickness of 20 mm. The coefficient of uniformity of heat engineering walls – 0.95. In the reconstruction of additional insulation thickness was determined with the following conditions – the walls are made of mud brick corpulent thickness depending on the purpose of the building and construction area – 380, 510, 640 or 770 mm with 20 mm plaster for buildings of the 1st and 2nd groups, and without plaster – for building third group. The protective layer of additional insulation is made of plaster 4.5 mm thick, reinforced with alkali-resistant fiberglass, and the thickness of the decorative layer is determined by the fraction of the filler.

With the present development of production become increasingly popular finishing materials, made of drywall and plastic. But such material as wood, time-tested, still in favor. And of course the role of cladding material itself the best option remains the wooden paneling. With groove and tongue, it is easy to assemble and versatile in use it is possible to "sheathe" any building and not just facades, but premises from the inside. The most popular wood siding – siding is made of pine – it is one of the cheapest, and it is to this day, holds first place in the category of price and quality. But if you want that would-room with his hands, in this case, the maximum lime suit lining, because it endure high temperatures and very poorly heated, and compared with the pine tar does not allocate.

Linings are made from different woods such as alder, oak, mahogany … .. but because of the very high prices they are used much less frequently than pine or lime lining. This lining material is divided into four classes – Extra, followed by classes – A, B, C. Lining-class produced the most expensive and vysokochestvennyh parody of wood, as it is free of knots and, accordingly, it is very expensive. The lower class bunks, the lower the quality and the higher the number of knots. Before you finish the installation of lining, it must be during the day for the acclimatization of the material to withstand the premises for which it is intended, and prepare all the necessary tools. You will definitely need the following tools: screwdriver, drill, wood screws, 75 and 35 mm, electrofret, screws, quick installation, wall paneling, klyamera mounting studs or 20 mm, level, hammer, plumb, mounting thread, hangers, stapler, staples, cabin, vapor barrier, mineral wool, wood block 40 * 50, and before any work you need wiring, set up to power.

Drywall is widely used in modern construction, primarily in order to align the walls and ceilings. Also, this building material helps to soundproof the room. Plasterboard has a light weight, can be easily transformed, so that in the modern interior design, it stands in the most unexpected combinations. The name "drywall" well reflects the structure of this building material. Roughly speaking, drywall is a slab of plaster layer, covered on both sides of sheets of cardboard.

There are some types of drywall. Ordinary gypsum board used for interior residential spaces – rooms, corridors, where the humidity does not exceed 70%. Bathroom, kitchen and other rooms with high humidity, a special moisture-resistant drywall. Vlagoottalkivayuschie properties of such a building material acquired by impregnation of gypsum special substances, repelling moisture. Although such material and are used in environments with high humidity, it must be additionally protected by covering with waterproof paint.

Fire-resistant gypsum board is also produced, which is used in areas with high risk of fire or high temperatures. When a manufactured building material, the gypsum is added fiberglass, which prevents the destruction of the material under high temperatures. Developed even drywall, which combines the quality of water and fire, but it is definitely more expensive than other types of drywall. The main preimsch6stvami drywall is its plasticity, the ability to conceal surface irregularities, which can not disguise the plaster, and, moreover, drywall – it is environmentally friendly building material. But the drywall has its drawbacks, in particular, it will spoil by moisture, is a useful floor area, is worth more than other building materials. If you are going to equip the apartment with the help of this construction material, in addition to the drywall you need to buy either: 1.

We recommend that you use to plaster the walls 'stucco'. To understand the benefits of using 'plaster', it should consider the following features: applied to the wall with a thin layer that allows you to display a wall with a minimum of material, does not shrink and does not crack, dry out in two times faster than conventional plaster putty consumption of plaster surface is greatly reduced. If take into account all these factors, the total cost of materials compared with similar work using conventional cement-sand mix will remain unchanged. However, you will significantly save on time, the cost of the work and certainly get better and more reliable result. Before applying the plaster, the wall is applied to the soil depth of penetration, which allows a layer of plaster is stronger hold on the wall. In plaster wall in a fiberglass reinforcing mesh, which allows you to smooth out the voltage inside the plaster and avoid the appearance of microcracks.

Next on the surface of the plaster is applied several coats of putty. Before each layer of the ground surface. Then the wall is polished and applied topcoat sealers (special putty with a small fraction). If the wall is being prepared for painting, polishing and then coating produced by the light special high-powered searchlights, which allows you to keep track of the smallest flaws on the wall. At the end of the pre-treatment of the wall is ready for application of finishing materials (paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster, etc.) Technology Application of different types of finishing materials are not identical. Next we take a closer look at some of them.

Paint the ceiling preparation does not differ much from the training walls. Device screed and waterproofing First, using gidrourovnya done marking of the floor level. Of the place, most raised relative to the rest room, then on the walls made a mark of zero.